boston


I have been to Boston before and it has notes of sort of a small San Francisco, good food, a little neighborhood action, some shopping and museums, but of course with a whole lot more history. Starting off doing the Freedom Trail is a great way to get the history under your belt and see a good chunk of the city. The Boston Common is a must do for the start of the trail and even some leisure time activities if the weather is right, including the Swan Boats which I didn’t make it to. Part way through you make it to Faneuil Hall which was under construction but you can still maneuver through Quincy Market, which is a bit on the touristy side, but  good for a variety of snack foods to reinvigorate you (smoothie anyone?). If you must walk all the way to the top of Bunker Hill Monument as your final stop (following the walk across the bridge and some time on the USS Constitution and a stop at some lovely outdoor seating cafe with lackluster food) then you deserve to treat yourself to a nice glass of wine.

No wine nearby? A missed opportunity but this might be a good time for a change of location. After a stop at Bin 26 Enoteca for a refreshing glass of wine a walk along Charles Street gave a taste of the  local boutiques like December Thieves (which has both a clothing store and a more artistry/accessory focus) or some clean skincare and body options at Follain. On another day a follow up trip to check out the more museum side of the Old State House and a good lunch bite at Scholars, the also starting at Boston Common but less well marked Black Heritage Trail was on the agenda which overlaps with the charming Beacon Hill should one want to combine these activities. For additional shopping you should also do a trip along Newbury street, which while it’s more well known brand shops and doesn’t have as much local fare one can always be taken in somehow, even if only at the Sneaker Junkies for a new pair of kicks. This also has you in the neighborhood of Arlington Street Church which has an amazing collection of Tiffany Memorial Windows, don’t be afraid to opt in to the custom tour by one of the guides, much more informative than the online one. Also in the neighborhood a couple of locations of Tatte Bakery & Cafe for a coffee, a pastry, or a meal.

And of course with all good cities there is art to be had.  Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum which had a very charming and tasty cafe and a bizarro look at a single woman’s vision of displaying a disparate an enormous amount of art in a house that I have to admit had me most captivated by the beautiful courtyard.  While timing prohibited a trip to the Institute of Contemporary Art it reportedly has one of the top ten museum gift shops in the world and I can attest there were a few irresistible items, plus makes for a nice stroll along the HarborWalk. The Museum of Fine Arts made for a great way to spend a day (or more), including checking luggage. Picking focus on the more including some Picasso, Pollack, Monet, Rothko, Klimt & Schiele… And as there was a good amount of time to kill one could sample their fancier restaurant Bravo and while the food was just a’ight but their various cafes can meet anyone’s needs.

But good food was generally on the menu with stops for Speakeasy Cocktails at Wink & Nod,  dinner at Erbaluce for delicious pasta, Myers + Chang for great Chinese (chef recently touting some honors), a stop for a glass of wine at Frenchie was cute but a little overrun at the time so we headed over to Giacomo’s for some custom combo pasta in bigger servings than one needs (cash only!). And while we popped into the intriguing Smith & Wollensky steakhouse Back Bay castle location between the lack of light on a sunny day and the lack of barstool it made more sense to pop across the street to Mooncusser Fish House which has a designated Moonbar downstairs for a flight or glass of wine.

And while one can entertain themselves pretty well in Boston a little trip through the Cape up to Provincetown, or Ptown as folks call it, makes for a great few days away. A drive along the coast is a little less coastlike but a pull off outside of Dennis to the Sesuit Harbor Cafe for ‘world famous’ lobster roll can put you in the mood. Once in Ptown a stroll up the main thoroughfare has everything you need. Drinks at the Harbor Lounge, breakfast or a quick bite with great outdoor seating if the weather is right at Patio or The Canteen with a nice dinner to be had at Ross’ Grill or an even more exceptional meal and experience at The Mews. Shops with a great gallery selection like Rice Polak Gallery and stops at stores like Yates & Kennedy where one could pick up housewares, clothing and/or a bitchin’ drafter’s tablet (aka fancy notepad) or Salt Supply for more styly kitchy options. A tasty breakfast stop at Liz’s Cafe before heading out along the south for a little more lighthouse action including Highlight Light for a tour and then a lunch stop (with perhaps a little additional shopping) at Chatham. Overall curious about more of the east coast beach culture but this was a nice little outing.

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another 100

‘Tis that time of year. The time when I evaluate my San Francisco worth based on my new total of restaurants of the Top 100 visited. Ok not really, but I do tend to feel like it’s been a good year if I’ve eaten some good food out and in SF that’s an easy thing to do whether or not I cross more restaurants off my official list.

This year with 18 new entrants that means some of the previous entries had to go. Although I ended last year with 52 visited, as of this week I am knocked back down to 46. And that’s with catching new entries A Mano (yummy local Italian), The Morris (made a fine birthday treat), and RT Rotisserie (a great pop by on my way home), as well as credit for not new to me but new to the list Locanda.

Other endeavors this year included fine Indian fare and cocktails at August1Five, tasty tapas at Bellota, yummy Mexican seafood at Cala, and finally timed a visit to Ramen Shop for a pop in with only a slight wait at the bar.

Let me know what you’ve eaten that’s good in the comments, I’m always plotting my next meal out!

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spa de da: Remède Spa

It was that time of year again so what better way to ring in another year of me than with a little pampering and relaxation. A little pricier but sometimes you do get what you pay for.

  • Spa: Remède Spa San Francisco
  • Service: 90 Minute Signature Massage
  • Cost: $255/$270 (more expensive sa/su)  ($2.83/3 min)
  • Amenities: They have the full suite of facility options with steam, sauna, and Jacuzzi in the locker rooms and a pool right across the way (the pool is a part of the hotel but it was pretty quiet). Locker rooms have the standard spa fare, very luxurious robes, and actual clocks to see if you’re in a rush to get to your treatment which you certainly don’t want to miss. There’s a small waiting area for you to be brought down a level for another small waiting area. The second includes typical spa snacks in addition to fabulous chocolate truffles. And you’re greeted, if you so choose, by a glass of champagne upon completion of service.
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spa de da: Willow Stream Spa

As I mentioned I recently got out of town, and while I don’t always indulge in a spa visit I do find it’s a nice city stop to add a little extra relaxation to the typical travel hustle. Popping into the lovely Fairmont Pacific Rim near the harbor was the perfect luxurious place to get away from it all.

  • Spa: Willow Stream Spa
  • Service: 60 min Deep Tissue/Purifying Detox Facial
  • Cost: $195/$195 CAD (more expensive f-su/holidays) – approx $156 USD ($2.60/min)
  • Amenities: The facilities are just lovely. Standard lockers, robes, slippers then take a pass through the rest of the women’s locker room to check out the amenities including a 360 shower. Then a visit to the most beautiful steam room I think I’ve ever seen with long spacious marble benches and a window overlooking the harbor. Then out to the coed areas including various indoor and outdoor lounges with fireplaces including cozy pods that you can nestle into and rotate looking out into the water giving a feeling a privacy and full tranquility. The staff swung by after a bit to offer some fresh fruit skewers. And two separate semi enclosed Jacuzzis for a cozier effect. Following the service you’re given the standard option of water or a shot of a fresh pressed juice blend. Of course various flavors of water available throughout along with the typical nuts and dried fruits. The hotel also has a full menu just a dial away including their sushi bar which I read was quite good.
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vancouver

Every so often you just need to get out of town. And July ended up being a good time to visit the lovely Vancouver. Flight from SFO to YVR is just a little over two hours and with an opt to hop in a cab it was a relatively quick jaunt to the lovely Burrard Hotel. Hotel pick was based on a Travel and Leisure posting and it ended up being a great location and home base. The city is quite walkable, up Burrard, past Robson shopping, along the Sydney opera house-esque Canada Place, and then a lay of the land with a trip up the Vancouver Lookout at Harbor Centre Tower; a pretty touristy stop but great views and lots of info on various parts of the city. Then a stroll through Gastown which is just a small hood that’s an interesting mix of touristy and boutiquey (did I mention the US/CAD was good?). Not quite ready for dinner Pourhouse was the perfect stop for enjoying the 1900s speakeasy vibe, listening to Sunday night live music, and a beverage and a snack. Later a taxi ride over to West for a delicious dinner, there was fish, there was pasta, it was good.

The next day started with a walk down to the adorable water taxis that take you the stone’s throw over to Granville Island. It’s basically a perma farmer’s market, restaurant, and shop area which makes for a lovely snack and stroll. After a break to do a beer tasting at Granville Island Brewing Taproom a stroll up to catch what I had heard was great fish and chips at Go Fish, sadly a reminder to check hours because it was closed on Monday. Alas there is good food to be found elsewhere, back heading over to Yaletown and the Homer Street Cafe for a fantastic rotisserie chicken, perfect sides, and a seat at the bar for some pleasant conversation and Vancouver tips from the staff. Later a tour through the Vancouver Art Gallery for a look at impressive Monet and photography exhibits and a stroll down Robson with a little shopping. Since we’re making this all about food this night brought Blue Water Cafe for a very good, very seafood dinner.

Apparently a trip to Vancouver is not complete without a trip for breakfast to Cafe Medina so get ready to wait in line for a worthwhile waffle with a selected topping, I went classic chocolate, a lavender latte, and you know I had eggs. After a little walk/shop around Yaletown, a trip over to Stanley Park and a visit to the aquarium which had quite a selection of lots of good water critters. One could spend days in Stanley Park, there’s a seawall that surrounds it that’s about 9k making for a perfect bike trip (note it’s one way only). Or one can take the internal route via car or taxi checking out sites and then make a stop at The Sylvia Hotel bar and restaurant on your way out for a cocktail and I heard from someone that they make a mean burger. No burger for me because I was saving up my meal to visit the most upscale of my dinner stops yet, Hawksworth, a la carte or tasting menu, everything I had was delicious and a little bit interesting.

A free shuttle makes a trip up to the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park for a tour of their major sites: the suspension bridge, the treetops adventure, and the cliff walk. While getting there early to minimize the crowds is helpful, even with the throngs of people it was an impressive setup getting great views of the beautiful rainforest. Then an afternoon lunch stop at Fish Counter for some fish and chips, very low frills counter order but the selection of fish options and fresh and tastiness was well worth it. The area right around there on Main Street also makes for a decent stroll of a few cute shops. And surprisingly that evening getting a little tired of fish Lupo Restaurant for a little Italian food would fit the bill, it was a quaint set up and the food was solid if not extraordinary.

Last full day started with a visit to the Willow Stream Spa in the Fairmont Pacific Rim which was absolutely decadent (I’ll follow up with a spa de da post). Time for more fish, so sushi at Miku Restaurant, the Premium sushi sampler was a great way to get a taste of their signature styles of Aburi and oshi. And another brief circuit ’round Gas Town (I had forgotten to look at the actual gas clock last time I was there, not significant but every 15 it gives a go) and a stop at Vancouver Urban Winery (which was actually a little further than I’d recommend walking for a break spot). Last official dinner dinner stop at the Royal Dinette which although named Vancouver Magazine’s Best New Restaurant was a bit of a letdown. Super cute and I liked the idea of the menu options but both app and main felt a little unbalanced. Fortunately one more meal to be had, an indulgent breakfast at Jam Cafe (there was a wait here as well) before heading home well fed and relaxed!

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spa de da: The I Spa

Well sometimes a deal comes along and you just need to take advantage of it. And the deals seem to come along frequently enough for The I Spa to make it a semi regular stop. With a few extras in the facility it makes it more of a spa day than just a massage but the less kept up, less spacious, and less extensive status of those extras makes it feel not quite A level. The discount makes up for that.

  • Spa: The I Spa (Soma)
  • Service: Swedish Massage
  • Cost: 80 min $205 ($2.56/min) – with $75 discount ($1.63/min)
  • Amenities: There’s access to the hotel’s pool and Jacuzzi, though with a needed escort around the corner and hotel guests it’s not as relaxing as it could be. Within the changing room, along with standard lockers, robes and slippers, is a steam room and showers. There’s a tiny waiting room with water though I can’t remember if there was anything other than some apples.
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another 100

It’s that time of year again, San Francisco Chronicles Top 100 Restaurants! As most folks who know me are aware I managed to make 50 on this list a priority a few years ago. Ever since I have tried to make it less of a serious goal and more of a consideration. This last year I somehow managed to work my way up to 53 before this year knocked me back down. Fortunately, with the eleven removals from my accomplishments I managed to hit a few new and old introductions to keep my number at 47. I’m pretty sure I can work 3 in at some point since I’ve already got a few on my radar.

Some of the noteworthy deliciousness of this year included the super fresh Cotogna and Octavia which didn’t disappoint. State Bird Provisions spin off The Progress made a non Spanish tapas style sampling a win. Plus cute and tasty pizza-licious Del Popolo was good that night and made amazing leftovers.

My second annual wine country restaurant trip hit lunch at Oso Sonoma which made me thankful I risked going cocktail instead of wine for the blood orange margarita to go with my also Mexican slanted shrimp tacos, and after working off a bit of that on to Bistro Don Giovanni for some of the freshest tasting pesto pasta I’ve ever had.

Oh and I can’t forget about Petit Crenn‘s seven course meal, which for a fixed menu did a great job of accommodating a non dairy slant (no cream or cheese but said butter was aok). I also made a couple trips to old faves which have stood the test of time, Zuni Cafe and The Slanted Door.

And my jump on this year includes the return of former faves La Taqueria and Seven Hills to the list and new picks Corridor and In Situ as well as Souvla. Where to next?

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spa de da

I have a tradition that on my birthday I take the day off and get a spa treatment, assuming it’s possible. It’s just a nice way to always do something a little special. So this year whilst searching for a new place to go I realized I had hit most of the hot spots in San Francisco but was having trouble recollecting so I thought I’d start sharing them (a handy way to keep track).

This year’s pick was a return visit to a spot I hadn’t hit in longer than I can recall:

  • Spa: SenSpa (SF-Presidio)
  • Service: Muscle Refresher Swedish Massage
  • Cost: 90 min $215 ($2.39/min)
  • Amenities: It doesn’t look like much from the outside, just another Presidio building, but they’ve done a nice job on the interior. The recent addition is their ‘cafe’ which is an eating space inside with a few pre-prepared options from The Plant as well as a few wine options. The facilities mostly consist of locker rooms with a steam room and all the standard: robe (though I’d prefer they didn’t sew the pockets shut)/slippers, brushes/dryers, lotions and shampoos. Otherwise they’ve got a few areas for restful sitting, included snacks (nuts, dates and the like) and of course water and tea.

And for the record as I recall throughout the years the following have been hits: Earthbody (SF-Hayes), Nob Hill Spa (SF-Nob Hill), Remede Spa (SF-Soma), Bliss Spa (SF-Soma), Spa Vitale (SF-Embarcadero), Cavallo Point Healing Arts Center & Spa (Sausalito), The I Spa San Francisco (SF-Soma), Burke Williams Day Spa (SF-Downtown), The Ritz-Carlton (Half Moon Bay), International Orange (SF – Fillmore), Kabuki Springs & Spa (SF-Japantown).

What should be next on the list?

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prague, budapest, viking cruise, munich…

It all started in Prague, with lots of jetlag and no clear mass transit opting for the hotel pickup to the lovely 987 Prague Hotel was a good call; the hotel’s in a pretty good locale with all walkable though a bit on the outer side of the old city. The Wenceslas Square shopping area was a good pass through to get to the more traditional old town. First stop the Black Madonna, one of the cubist style buildings housing both the cubist museum and the Grand Cafe Orient for a nice coffee. Then further to Tyn Church in the main square where there are some fun old timey car ride tours to get a look at spots near and far including the castle (photo above), the Rasin Building aka Fred and Ginger, the Lenin Wall, and a view of the glass blocked National Theater building, Nova Scena. Heading back for a more detailed look with a stroll across Charles Bridge to funicular number one of the trip up to the Eiffel tower’s little sister the Petrin Tower; some pretty gardens and up top a nice view. Walking the Old Jewish Cemetery is a poignant visit seeing the list of Holocast victims in the Pinkas Synagogue followed by a walk of the small span fitting the hundred thousand graves is beautiful nonetheless. A stop at a recommended hot spot for Hot Chocolate at Hotel Neruda (I can only assume it’s good if the delicious Soy Latte and croissant dipped into a pool of chocolate were any indication), up to the changing of the guard at Prague Castle at noon followed by a bit of a tour and of course an ice cold beer to drink in the cold, but with that view who could resist sitting outside. And they do love their beer, a visit to the Beer Museum (the pub not the museum) to continue to explore the love of pilsners with a flight of samples, not to stick to all things beer there’s also the Champagneria and La Bodeguita del Medio for a quick mojito. And a couple amazing dinners at Kampa Park for a fancy, beautiful, and delicious seafood meal and a more traditional Italian dinner at La Finestra, also stumbling upon Vinograf Wine Bar near the hotel for a perfect merrying of pasta and a little vino.

Then hopping on a train and heading onto Budapest which was Airbnb action, a great location and had the weather been better we would have quite enjoyed our rooftop deck. We were right by the Central Market Hall for a nice look at some of the local fare before journeying out for the sites. The Castle District is worth a visit and not just for my second funicular of the trip. The Hungarian National Gallery was pretty impressive while the Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art was not. One can head across the Chain Bridge and check out the fabulous looking Parliament (photo above). Food and drink were had at some hotspots like The Four Seasons which has fancy fare but also amazing architecture, Mai Mano Cafe where the arty hipsters are reported to be, Trattoria Toscana for some delicious Italian, traditional fare at Hung(a)ry, and Csendes one of the ruin pubs for a complete experience. And no trip complete without a trip to the traditional baths at Veli Bej Baths we managed our way through the protocols to great relaxation (basically you should bring anything you need including towels).

And onto the cruise up the Danube on the Viking riverboat! So it’s basically set up like a floating hotel (rooms, restaurant, bar…) that mostly travels overnight to give you the most time in each port city each day. And of course meals are included as is Julie McCoy cruise director to let you know every day what you’re going to see and coordinate your included tour, as well as some options. We arrived for our first outing (we skipped the organized Budapest trip) in Bratislava, Slovakia with a bus tour including the Castle followed by a walking tour of downtown. Our freetime was capped off by our special outing for drinks and dinner at the UFO Restaurant atop the “new” bridge – it only sways a little in the wind! (photo above). Then three separate days in Austria. Vienna, which after a morning of walking tour and history was followed by a Viennese coffee at Cafe Hawelka and an afternoon of good museums both Belvedere and Leopold. November is too early for the Christmas Markets but the structures were starting to pop up everywhere (which was actually kind of annoying). I skipped our next port stops of Melk & Dürnstein, which were undoubtedly charming, mostly due to a minor onboard injury. And then went for the day trip outside of Linz (which was a bummer not to check out more of) to the Czech Ceský Krumlov which was in fact a charming site (photo above) including a nice pop in to the interesting Egon Schiele Art Centrum. And then on to Germany with a stop in Passau for another walking tour covering days of yore including yet another church differentiated by the largest church pipe organ and a lackluster exhibit at the MMK Modern Art Museum was balanced out by a charming lunch stop at Anton coffee house and winebar before wrapping this part of the trip.

After a decent bus ride an amazing final respite in Munich (here’s to a cheap Flixbus that took us from Passau and caught a few of the more architectural highlights on the way in). Our hotel Deutsche Eiche was on an adorable street and as we took off our first evening to see what we could see and turns out we were right by the Viktualienmarkt (market), where it was actually warm enough to pop in to the beer garden with the most giant soft pretzel you’ve ever seen in close proximity of the amazing St. Peter’s Church (photo above). Museum day started with a walk through the impressive but never ending Residenz, then the four part Pinakothek der Moderne, which houses Design, Architecture, Contemporary, and Classical Modernism, followed by a pop over to the slightly too modern Museum Brandhorst. For the Sunday where it turned out most things are closed we went through the large Englischer Garten with a stop off at the Chinese Tower. And lest one worries there is also good food to be found, from a fun Burger & Bier to Italian at L’Osteria Kunstlerhaus to more traditional fare at Wirsthaus in der Au we were more than covered.

A good time was had by all! Where to next?

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another 100

A few years ago I made it my goal to up the number of restaurants that I had visited on the San Francisco Chronicle Top 100 list. I was counting restaurants I’d visited in years prior to the current list and since there are 100 restaurants all over the Bay Area I had what seemed like a manageable goal to up my number to 50. And I did!

Though once that goal was complete, a new list came out and with new restaurants introduced and others removed from the list I was back in the situation I find myself at with each new list, less than 50 attended. So moving forward I’ve refrained from making it an official goal but do tend to take a look each year. This year not only did I up my number back up to 49 including some new faves The Cavalier, Oenotri, and surprisingly now dropped from the list Farmshop, I also attended a couple of old favorites that I hadn’t been to in a while, Delfina and Boulevard (yum).

So with the new list out this year my number is back down to 39:

http://projects.sfchronicle.com/2016/top-100-restaurants/ 

Where to next?

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